Stories From 1995
Trek Through Belgium
Below you'll find stories from my first trek through Belgium
back in 1995. Photos do not accompany these stories. Digital
cameras weren't around yet and the Internet was just beginning.
Photos were taken with a 35 mm camera and then developed into
slides so I could give slide show talks. I have thousands and
thousands of slides from my travels and am still waiting for
a high-speed scanner to be introduced in the marketplace so I
can convert the slides and post them with the stories. Since
my 1995 visit Electrabel, Tractebel and Societe Generale were
all swallowed up by the French water and energy giant Suez. PetroFina
was taken over by French oil company Total and insurer Royale
Belge became a subsidiary of French insurance giant AXA.
Here's a list
of the companies found by scrolling below:
S.A. Delhaize
"Le Lion"
Solvay SA
Electrabel and Tractebel
Societe Generale de Belgique S.A.
PetroFina SA
Kredietbank NV
UCB SA
Cockerill Sambre
S.A. Cimenteries
DHL Worldwide Network s.a./n.v.
International Pigeon Federation
Royale Belge
Bank Brussels Lambert n.v.
Fortis AG/Fortis AMEV
CMB SA
Ackerman & van Haaren
Gevaert NV SA
S.A. Delhaize "Le
Lion"
Finding the head office of supermarket giant Delhaize "Le
Lion" requires riding several miles from downtown into an
older, somewhat rundown area of Brussels. Headquarters looks
to be located in one of their distribution centers as I see company
trucks entering and exiting the premises. It's a fenced/walled-in
complex about two blocks long and two blocks wide. The site is
buffeted on all sides by low-rent housing. Riding up to the guard
gate the guard motions me to wait along the side of the road
as a constant stream of big trucks go in and out. Evidently the
guard knew who I was when riding up and had made a quick phone
call because I haven't even dismounted from my bike before Mark
Verleye, director of personnel, and Willi Tenaerts, head of company
security, are out to the security gate giving me a warm welcome.
Though furnishings
in headquarters are spartan and definitely no-frills, I have
a great visit due to Verleye and Tenaerts. My questions are answered
sitting in the company's boardroom on the second floor of the
two-story structure. How old is the building? Old enough not
to have elevators. The 125-year old company has been on the site
since 1892.
Delhaize operates
supermarkets in France, Czech Republic, Greece, Belgium and the
United States. In the USA they operate the Food Lion and Cub
Foods chains. With over 1,000 stores and sales for the first
half of 1995 of US$3.8 billion, Food Lion is one of the biggest
chains in America. I tell Verleye and Tenaerts about my visit
several years ago to Food Lion's office in Salisbury, North Carolina.
Though I was given a cordial welcome at Food Lion I kept getting
the feeling something was amiss. Sure enough, the Sunday after
my visit I found out: The television show "60 Minutes"
ran a devastating story on Food Lion with hidden cameras documenting
incidents such as meat cutters mislabeling, recycling and repackaging
bad meat sold in stores when it should have been tossed.
Stepping across the
hall from the boardroom puts me in CEO Gui de Vaucleroy's very
modest second floor corner office. It's definitely no-frills.
There's a plaque on a wall which reads: "The customer is
king". Ironically, hanging on another wall there's a framed
picture of a king, not just any king but, the King of Belgium
(now deceased) shopping in a Delhaize food store. So, what's
the view from Vaucleroy's office? It's situated right above the
sole road going in and out of the place which means he can keep
tabs on employees leaving early or getting in late.
Over 400 employees work here. As with most big supermarket chains
the company has it's own private label brands of goods. Conference
rooms are named after these brands.
Considering it's location in a less-than-desirable area and obvious
lack of space, I ask Verleye and Tenaerts why the company doesn't
up and move to a bigger and better location. To answer that question
I'm led out the office building to a large structure across the
way (which I assumed was a distribution center). Turns out this
place is Delhaize's wine bottling facility. Over 700 varieties
of wine are bottled here. Through it's stores, Delhaize is one
of the biggest (if not biggest) sellers of wine in Belgium. I'm
given a tour of the facility which includes going underground
to the catacombs where thousands upon thousands of bottles of
wine are stored. We're talking lots of storage space-the size
of two football fields. Anyway, the reason the company won't
be moving from here anytime soon has to do with the row after
row of giant steel wine drums encased in concrete. It's one of
those situations where they can't just up and leave because the
massive steel drums can't be retrieved and moved.
Displayed on the dock
outside the wine plant entrance there's a company bicycle used
in the 1920's for delivering customer's groceries plus, there's
also a fire engine from the late 1800's.
Revenues for 1994 were US$ 11.6 billion, profit US$ 120 million.
Solvay SA
Looking for my hotel I mistakenly come across Solvay's headquarters
tucked away on side streets several miles from Brussels's city
center. The company-owned, concrete-clad buildings definitely
have the pre-World War ll. look to 'em.
One of the two security
guards is very helpful (the other says I have to have an appointment
and isn't willing to call up to find out who my contact person
is so I can make an appointment). I'm put on the phone to a woman
assistant in public relations who says it isn't possible to track
down my letter and I should mail in another letter explaining
what I'm doing. Nuts to that as I leave some material behind
and decide to come back in several days. I pick up a company
employee magazine on the way out and note the article titled,
"First Impressions Count" about Solvay winning the
1994 Belgian Telephone Trophy. It's awarded to the company whose
staff had the best telephone manner when greeting callers over
the phone. A portion of the story reads, "The initial contact
with the company, the simple telephone call, must leave a positive
impression with the customer, supplier or external partner. However,
the corporate image also depends on promptness in replying, and
as much thought and attention should go into greeting people
by phone as goes into an advertisement or an annual report."
Hmmph, thanks to the less-than-helpful response from the public
relations woman my first impression of the company isn't very
positive.
Returning later in
the week proves to be a smart move as I hook up with Paul Muys,
External Relations Officer. I don't know if it's just a Belgium
"thing" but, Muys's last name on his business card
is in all capitals. Ditto for the fellows at Delhaize. Though
he's been with the company only a few weeks, Muys does his best
in answering questions. We're in a five-story building and across
the street in a similar looking pre-War building are offices
for Solvay Belgium. Approximately 500 work in the two.
Solvay, with 1994
revenues of US$ 8.2 billion, is the world's 20th largest chemical
and pharmaceutical company. Solvay's the world's largest producer
of soda ash, digestive products and hydrogen peroxide. It's also
the world's second largest producer of salt and laxatives.
Checking out the boardroom proves to be an adventure because
Muys hasn't been there himself. After a series of wrong staircases
and dead-end corridors in the block-long building we find the
boardroom down the hall from Baron Daniel Janssen's office, who's
President (they don't use the term CEO). The large boardroom,
a grand high-ceilinged affair, is currently undergoing re-carpeting.
The ugly green is out, replaced by off-blue carpet. The walls
are lined with display cases housing company memorabilia such
as old books and pictures including various photos of Solvay
family members.
Janssen's in a meeting
in his second floor middle office but I sneak a peek as we walk
by. Looks pretty normal but, his ugly green carpet as well as
the visibly worn-out green carpet in the hallway has to go.
SIDEBAR* Visiting
several other companies I learn my contact person, Paul Muys,
until he took this job with Solvay, was Belgium's leading television
newscaster. I didn't catch him reading off a cue card once.
Electrabel and
Tractebel
Well, seeing the United States Embassy down the block tips me
off this is a prestigious and high-rent district. Electrabel,
which generates 94% of electricity used in Belgium, occupies
a block-long, eight-story structure clad in granite and darkened
glass. Beginning in the impressive eight-story atrium, Ingeborg
Verstraete from Public Relations starts to show me around the
place which is actually two separate buildings (wings) connected
by the atrium. This has been home to the company since 1991 with
500 to 600 employees working here. Revenues in 1994 were BEF
205 billion, profit BEF 26 billion. About halfway through the
questions I'm surprised to learn Electrabel, Belgium's largest
industrial company, is merely a subsidiary of Tractebel. Making
a quick check of the companies I'll be visiting in Brussels I
note Tractebel's name on the list. So, I bid Verstraete an early
exit and head for Tractebel's office. Of course since it's been
raining heavily all day and still is, you can imagine my glee
in finding out the head office is right next door.
Tractebel's six-story
headquarters is a good-looking neoclassical edifice. The marbled
lobby area is filled with a walk-through display celebrating
the company's 100th anniversary this year. The receptionist,
more interested in her personal phone conversation, acts perturbed
that I've interrupted her.
Francois Desclee de
Maredsous, Company Secretary, turns out to be my contact person
and I'm directed upstairs via an elevator hidden behind a door.
Maredsous says King Leopold II of Belgium originally built this
building as a hotel in 1934. Back then and to this day visiting
the King's palace from here isn't much of a trek because the
backside of the palatial digs sit right across the street-less
than a Frisbee toss away. With the United States embassy down
one end of the street and the King's palatial palace practically
next door, this is quite the prestigious location.
Over 180 employees work here. I can't see Managing Director Philippe
Bodson's third floor office because "he's busy". However,
the boardroom's very impressive. It's located street level in
what used to be the hotel's former dining room. The long table
(five sections of wood) seats 26 and two 15 x 20 foot very old
Belgian tapestries line the walls. What's interesting is the
boardroom's location. Situated street level, people can walk
along the public sidewalk out front and look into the room. Maredsous
assures me the windows are bombproof.
This is like that picture of a fish eating a fish, which in turn
is itself eaten by a bigger fish, which in turn is eaten by an
even bigger fish. Maredsous informs me Tractebel is controlled
by another company, Societe Generale de Belgique, which has it's
headquarters about two blocks away.
Tractebel's revenues
in 1994 were US$9.1 billion, profit US$ 320 million. Besides
Electrabel, Tractebel operates in other areas including engineering
services (over 2,500 engineers), natural gas, communications
and real estate.
SIDENOTE*I always
ask companies if there's anything unusual about their headquarters
such as there being a helipad atop the building or it's situated
on a former cemetery site. When asked, Maredsous answered with
it being a former hotel built by a king. Well, it turns out the
place has more history to it than Maredsous let on. At least
a half-dozen other companies visited asked me if Tractebel mentioned
the fact that the German Gestapo had their headquarters in the
place from 1940 to 1945.
Societe Generale
de Belgique S.A.
Phew, I think my search is over and I've finally located the
mother company to Electrabel and Tractebel. Looking at Societe
Generale de Belgique's annual report I see this holding company
has controlling interest in no less than FIVE companies I was
going to visit in Brussels. Besides controlling Tractebel via
its 36.8% of shares, it has a 29.7% interest in Generale Bank
(Belgium's largest bank and the 59th largest in the world according
to assets), 70.1% of Recticel (polyurethane foams, bedding and
motor vehicles), 50.2% of Union Miniere (mining concern) and
19.2% of insurer Fortis.
So, if I were Belgium's
king and was living in the King's Palace and was sitting out
on the front porch rocking away in my rocking chair I'd see a
large square across the street with a park in the middle. I'd
also see various identical size, four-story Georgian-style buildings
fronting three sides of the block long by block wide park. Why?
Because more than 100 years ago an earlier Belgium king laid
out the area and that's what he liked. I mention the above because
my contact person Katryn Nassens, communications, says it explains
why Societe Generale de Belgique tore down it's Georgian offices
across the street from the King's palace in 1972 and rebuilt
it in the same style: out of respect to the long gone king's
wishes.
Though the king's
palace isn't open to the public, visiting Generale de Belgique's
offices makes me think of palatial palaces. Once past the receptionist
and security guard, two large antique traveling trunks greet
you before entering a long, impressive marbled corridor. Four
huge 17th century Belgium tapestries hang from the corridor walls
and several glass displays contain company memorabilia, including
a ledger and share of company stock, both dated 1822 (that's
when Generale de Belgique was founded).
Roughly 100 people
work here and having a meeting in one of the conference rooms
is quite an experience. Nassens answers questions sitting in
a high-ceilinged meeting room called the King's Room. Jeez, if
the fancy, formal furnishings don't make me feel underdressed,
the large oil portraits hanging on the wall of past Belgium kings
(King Leopold 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5) do.
Wow!, walking into
the first floor boardroom the words grand, sumptuous, power and
history come to mind. The room is BIG and the boardroom table
is looonnng. It seats 60. The wood floor complements the 18th
century chandeliers and several more huge 17th or 18th century
tapestries hang from a wall. Ivory plaques of executives from
1822-1961 are displayed. Definitely has the possibility of making
my international listing of 10 Best Boardrooms.
Can't see CEO Philippe
Liotier's office because "he's new and isn't here yet".
Oh no!, guess what Nassens reveals to me. Liotier replaces former
CEO Gerard Mestrallet, who's now CEO of Compagnie de Suez SA,
a French financial and industrial Goliath, which AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
CONTROLS Societe Generale de Belgique.
PetroFina SA
Considering it's one of Belgium's biggest international companies
I'm surprised to find PetroFina's head office located on a quiet
side street about a mile from city center. The oil/gas/chemical
concern with 1994 revenues of BF 358 billion, profit BF 10 billion,
occupies a low-key, block-long structure. A small plaque near
the front entrance is the only way of knowing you've found the
place. I mention this because it's raining cats and dogs and
I passed the place twice because I couldn't see the puny-size
name plaque.
The two friendly receptionists,
looking real sharp in their matching blue blazer outfits, give
my contact person Hans Daems, public relations and communications,
a call. Normally, the receptionist hands you a visitors badge
to wear but not here; you get to type up your own via the computer
sitting atop the receptionist's counter top.
Looking over Daems's
business card I notice his last name in all capitals which is
proving to be the rule rather than the exception. As I mentioned
in my The Netherlands stories, the rule there was to only put
the first initial of your first name and then your whole last
name on your business card. Here, you put your first name and
last name but, the last name gets all capitals.
The seven-story building,
which fronts the public sidewalk, is actually comprised of several
buildings added on to over the years with the first built in
the 1950's and the last in the 1980's. On the backside there's
an enclosed courtyard garden. About 600 people work here.
Big news around here, besides being the company's 75th anniversary,
there's a new, soon-to-be-completed cafeteria. Making our way
around construction crews, Daems eagerly shows off the place.
It's gonna be real nice, with it's high ceilings, sun roofs and
view of the courtyard garden.
Looking into Managing
Director's Francois Cornelis's office I note the fresh flowers,
lack of computer, family pictures and paintings of Boston and
New York City (he worked in those two cities). The boardroom
table consists of eight pieces of wood pushed together and the
20 hardback chairs look very uncomfortable. There's also an oil
portrait of Laurent Meeus, who founded the company.
Kredietbank NV
Disappointing reception at Kredietbank NV, one of Belgium's biggest
banks. The five-story head office sits smack in the middle of
Brussels's downtown financial center. The building fronts the
sidewalk and since there isn't a reasonable safe place to secure
my bicycle I enter the loading dock area where the guard let's
me park it inside. I'm then directed to wait in a room near the
loading dock area which looks like it's where messengers get
to wait- meaning it's not very plush.
Managing Director
Wilfred Janssen's secretary greets me in person and says she's
not familiar with what I'm doing but will find someone to meet
with me. Mark Weytjens, senior area manager-international banking
division, gets the call. Though a nice guy, the extent of my
visit is the crummy room and a walk up to the main banking hall
of the bank. I'm not allowed in the executive area because "it's
a secured area". From the street the building doesn't look
that big but, Weytjens says it goes way back and over 800 employees
work here. Built sometime after World War 11 it was the former
home of Deutsche Bank.
Company Blurbs
UCB SA
Nothing worth noting about UCB SA headquarters. The pharmaceutical/chemical
concern leases floors 14-23 in a 24-story reflective glass tower
several miles from downtown Brussels. Don't know why the reflective
glass tower has the name Blue Tower when the glass looks more
black than blue. Revenues in 1994 revenues were BF 52 billion,
profit BF 2.3 billion. Over 300 employees work here.
Cockerill Sambre
Things seem to be unorganized at Cockerill Sambre, a steel producer
with 1994 revenues of BF 167 billion, profit BF 807 million.
Address I had for headquarters was in Seraing, a blue collar
city of 300,000 people 50 miles east of Brussels. Show up at
building next to one of huge, grim-looking steel plants only
to be told headquarters was in Brussels. Cockerill occupies the
second and third floors of a non-descript seven-story building
about five miles from downtown Brussels. No name on outside of
building. No-frills, chaotic feel about the place. Barbara Hupin,
external relations, isn't much help. roughly 55 employees work
here.
S.A. Cimenteries
CBR
Right next door to Cockerill Sambre sits the eight-story concrete
headquarters of S.A. Cimenteries CBR, who together with it's
main shareholder Heidelberger (German firm owning 50%) is the
5th largest cement company in the world. Very bizarre visit.
After waiting in the lobby almost an hour Marc de Middeleer,
Director-Group Communications & External Relations, steps
out and say he hasn't time for me. I then ask for an annual report
and he disappears. TWENTY MINUTES later he reappears with an
annual report, a handwritten one page paper listing company highlights
and a totally useless brochure on the building because it's written
in French. Unbelievable, he doesn't have time for me yet, he
just spent 20 minutes hand-writing a one page summary while I
sat in the lobby twiddling my thumbs!
The concrete-clad building has large egg-shaped windows and the
large expansive reception area contains nine white leather sofas
and 11 white leather chairs to clash with the tannish-yellow
carpet.
Almost Bikeless
In Brussels
Brussels, besides being the capital of Belgium, is home to the
European Union. Big massive buildings (not so much tall as bulky)
seem to abound around town and from what I can gather from trying
to read their signs out front, all have some connection with
the EU and each looks like it could hold several thousand bureaucrats.
It's a beautiful compact
city and for a few days I thought I was in New Orleans. Why?
Riding around town I kept passing shops with signs saying "pralines".
New Orleans is famous for their molasses-like pralines and I
hadn't heard that of Brussels. I finally stop and wander into
one of the shops. What an idiot! I learn praline is Belgium for
chocolate.
My two-week stay in
Brussels is marred by having to leave the city on both Mondays
and Tuesdays because all the hotels are over booked. After visiting
companies on one Monday my bike and I caught a late train to
Brugge, a historic city roughly 60 miles east of Brussels. I
could get hooked taking my bike on trains here because it's so
easy. I don't have to unload the panniers or place the bike in
a box, I just lift it onto a baggage car and the conductor gives
me a baggage tag. Getting back to Brussels proves to be a different
story. Bicycles cannot be unloaded at Brussels's Central station;
there's a station stop about a mile east and a mile west of Central
station. I told the baggage handler I wanted off on the stop
east of Central station. So, the packed commuter morning train
first comes into west station, stops, and starts taking off toward
Central station. I'm reading a paper and just happen to look
out the window. Oh my god! there's my bike sitting on the track
platform, the baggage guy unloaded it at the wrong stop!! The
train goes about a 100 feet and stops, apparently waiting for
clearance to head into Central station. Me, I'm frantically going
through various railcars trying to find a conductor to let me
off. No luck, all I can do is look out the window and see my
bike looking forlorn on a busy train platform. It's a VERY long
five-minute journey to Central station where upon arrival I immediately
jump on the first train heading back to the west station. PHEW!!,
believe it or not my bike is still standing in the same spot.
DHL Worldwide Network
s.a./n.v.
I take pride in my ability to arrive into a new city (as I'm
constantly doing) and finding my way around. Sometimes though,
I'll get completely lost and confused trying to find a company's
headquarters. I don't know how many times I've been fortunate
enough to run into a UPS, Federal Express or DHL driver who's
helped me out. However, with every DHL driver I always ask this
question: What do the letters DHL stand for? Over 80% of the
time they don't know. I know because I visited DHL's USA headquarters
in Redwood City, California several years ago. DHL was formed
in 1969 when the company's three founders Adrian Dalsey, Larry
Hillblom and Robert Lynn established a courier service and formed
its name from the initials of their last names. DHL pioneered
the international cross border door-to-door air express industry.
DHL Worldwide Network occupies one and a half floors in a white,
five-story building several miles from downtown Brussels. Built
in 1988, there's a small fenced-in park connected to the rear
of the building. Open to the public during the day the park looks
like a great place to eat your sack lunch. The building's main
claim to fame being it houses the Luxembourg embassy.
A large framed picture
of DHL planes parked at Brussels's airport highlights DHL's small
reception area on the second floor. Susan Wilson, Compensation
and Administration Manager, gives me a warm welcome and shows
me around the place which is home to 105 employees. The Brussels
airport lies a half dozen miles away and is DHL's biggest hub,
which explains why the head office is located in Brussels.
There's parking for
employees in the underground parking garage but, it's first come,
first served, meaning if CEO Patrick Lupo's the last one in he
has to hunt for a parking spot like everyone else. Lupo's middle
office contains all kinds of DHL items including a framed story
from the Financial Times newspaper hanging on a wall whose headline
reads, "Federal Express Retreats From Europe". Also
on a wall there's a picture of two hikers on the summit of Mt.
Everest holding up a DHL banner and another recent picture showing
President Clinton's plane, Air Force One (a 747), on the tarmac
at Brussels's airport strategically parked in front of a DHL
hanger. I count eight model DHL planes and one model Japan Air
Line plane (JAL and Lufthansa each own 25% and Japanese trading
company Nissho Iwai 7.5% of privately-held DHL). Lupo has a computer,
four real plants and four family pictures.
International Pigeon
Federation
My main reason for visiting the International Pigeon Federation
is more out of curiosity than anything else. Why the heck is
this organization based in Belgium? Will pet pigeons be caged
like parakeets on workers desks? And lastly, will I find pigeons
and piles of their droppings living happily on the outside ledges
of the International Pigeon Federation?
Offices are in a three-story
former townhouse several miles from downtown. It's a snazzy area
with the whole block being crammed with similar townhouses but
the rest look to be for strictly residential use. A small discreet
plaque near the driveway entrance lets me know I've found the
place. Getting inside requires walking up the driveway and entering
via a door on the side of the house. Wow, I see a big backyard
and parking for about a half-dozen cars. From the street it didn't
look like any of these townhouses had a backyard.
Entering I encounter
a glass display case filled with dozens of nik-naks, all having
IPF stamped on them such as watches, pins, pens, lighters, key
chains and books on pigeons. My first visit ends quickly when
it's explained to me the organization only deals with "external
matters" between 9am and noon. The afternoon is for "internal
matters" only. Since it's now 2 PM and I'm an "external
matter" I'm told to come back in the morning. I return the
next morning and the morning after that only to be told each
time "we're busy". Hmm, this is really starting to
intrigue me. On the fourth visit I make an appointment to meet
with Andre Vancoppenolle, Director General, the following morning.
I show up on time but, end up waiting outside his office door
for more than an hour. I easily deduce Vancoppenolle's a smoker
because the fumes from his cigarettes are coming out from under
the closed door. The meeting is finally over and his door opens.
Vancoppenolle's first words to me are "what's your problem?"
as in, why are you here?
I'm invited into his small office, he closes the door and proceeds
to light up a cigarette without asking if I mind. The 50-something
year-old Vancoppenolle admits to being a chain-smoker (three
packs a day) and seems quite proud of it.
So why is the IPF
in Brussels? "We have more members here than anywhere else
in the world, over 40,000" says Vancoppenolle. Turns out
pigeon racing is a big deal here. Just last week, various members
from Belgium trekked to Spain and let their pigeons loose. Why?
To see who's gets back to Brussels first.
Vancoppenolle has
been running this organization for 20 years and you get the feeling
it's his private fiefdom. About a dozen employees work in this
elevator less structure built in 1944. Looking around Vancoppenolle's
office I count three pigeons: one's in an oil painting hanging
on a wall (a former world class champion flyer I'm told), another's
a plain-old ceramic pigeon sitting on a mantel and the third
is this month's centerfold on a wall calendar.
Walking past several
tall trees and shrubbery to the rear of the property Vancoppenolle
shows me several very large pigeon coops where wayward homing
pigeons are kept. These are the homing pigeons that weren't or
aren't too swift and couldn't find their way back home. Getting
a closer look I can see they each have identifying bands on their
feet aren't the normal dumb-looking pigeons you find loitering
around anywhere there's food. Vancoppenolle says, just like famous
race horses, homing pigeons are bred for winners.
Oh, and before bidding
adieu, I look up upon the window ledges of the townhouse. Nope,
nary a pigeon is to be found nesting anywhere and nope, no screen,
mesh or little spikes in sight.
Royale Belge
Riding five miles from downtown brings me to Royal Belge's massive
10-story, oxidized steel headquarters. Built in 1970, the gold
reflective structure is home to 2,500 employees and backs up
to a heavily wooded forest. A large man-made pond takes up most
of the front grounds and I can see fishes in the water.
The lobby, about the
size of a football field, is humongous! The ceiling, at least
25-feet high, makes it easy to hang tapestries on the walls and
Royal Belge, Belgium's second largest life insurer with BEF 73
billion in assets, has big ones on display. Four to be exact,
each 20 foot by 20 foot. These are 16th century Belgian tapestries
with biblical scenes. An 8 foot by 8 foot oil painting by Cornelius
Huysmans (1648-1726) of a forest scene also hangs on a wall.
Kristine De Mulder, communications director, gives me the royal
tour. A trip to the basement proves interesting. It's down here
in the bowels of the building in an area about the size of a
city block, where company files are kept. Dozens of lucky employees
get to work down here all day seeing nothing but the cold gray
slabs of concrete walls. Well, actually it's not that bad. Why?
Years ago the company hired a painter to liven up the walls and
he did quite a good job. The gray slabs of concrete have been
transformed into various brightly painted frescos. For instance,
one whole wall has been colorfully painted to look like the Swiss
Alps with dark blue skies, ski chalets and white puffy clouds
in the background.
The food in the large
first floor cafeteria is excellent. There's a section cordoned
off for guests and it suits me fine because instead of having
to stand in the busy lines-we get served at our table by waitresses.
The stuffed salmon, creamed broccoli and potatoes gets two thumbs
up and so does dessert: vanilla ice cream topped with a delicious
creamy raspberry sauce.
When using the cafeteria employees don't pay cash. They have
a credit card-like card, which keeps tabs. When done eating employees
take their trays to the dirty dishes area. Nearby on a wall hangs
a machine which lists four entree's for tomorrow's lunch. Employees
insert their credit card like-card and press which entree they
want for lunch tomorrow. De Mulder isn't too keen on the machine
because what if you punch fish and chips and the next day you
develop a craving for chicken instead?
There's a great view
of the surrounding forest from President Jean-Pierre Gerard's
middle office on the 10th floor. Don't see a computer. Nothing
special about the boardroom though, the table is black and the
chairs are red.
Bank Brussels Lambert
n.v.
Remember earlier when I mentioned Tractebel and Electrabel being
in a prestigious area just down the block from the American embassy
and practically next door to the King's Palace? Well, it's on
the same block but across the street where I find the headquarters
for Bank Brussels Lambert (BBL), in terms of total assets the
27th largest bank in Europe and 88th in the world.
Until seeing the BBL lettering on the nine-story marble-clad
structure I thought it a museum of sorts. The several metal and
wood sculptures placed near the entrance could easily cause someone
to make that mistake. I like the metal sculpture of a woman in
a sack with a hula hoop around her.
Willy Bogaerts, public
relations, and Eric Fauconnier, personnel, answer questions and
walk me around the place, which is home to 1,500 employees. The
company has an extensive international contemporary art collection
of over 2,000 pieces including paintings, sculptures and drawings.
I mention the collection being international because the overwhelming
majority of companies visited so far in Europe have been very
territorial or nationalistic. By that I mean the art collections
of say, Norwegian companies, consists of works only by Norwegian
artists. Dutch companies have only works done by Dutch artists
and so on. Why does BBL have such an extensive art collection
(including "Flowers" by Andy Warhol in the executive
dining room and Henri Moore sculptures)? BBL came about as a
result of a merger between the Bank of Brussels and Lambert Bank
with the later headed by Baron Lambert. Current headquarters
(a Skidmore Owens Merrill designed building) was built in 1961.
In 1969 a matching connecting building was added giving the complex
the shape of the letter "H". Anyway, for years after
the merger Baron Lambert lived on the ninth floor of this building
and was a very avid and well-known collector of art.
The ninth floor now
houses the executive dining rooms, which has a grand view of
downtown, the King's Palace and Tractebel across the street.
In one of my earlier stories I mentioned Tractebel's offices
being the headquarters for the Gestapo during their occupation
of Belgium in World War II. Several years ago this incident happened
here: one of BBL's executives, a Jewish man, was sitting down
to have lunch, as usual, in the executive dining room. While
waiting for his food he gazed out the window only to be horrifically
startled by what he saw across the street. What was it? A Nazi
flag flying atop Tractebel's flagpole. It later turned out a
war movie was being filmed and Tractebel's headquarters was being
used in the movie.
Fortis AG/Fortis
AMEV
With 1994 revenues of US$ 19 billion, profit US$ 650 million,
Fortis AG/Fortis AMEV is the world's 10th largest diversified
financial services company. Formed in 1990, it's one of those
companies with dual head offices (Utrecht, The Netherlands and
Brussels, Belgium). While in the Netherlands I bicycled by the
spiffy new 18-story head office in suburban Utrecht.
Belgium headquarters lies in the center of downtown Brussels
in three separate buildings.
Executives occupy
space in a six-story turn of-the-century structure. An 1820 fire
engine (pulled by men) holds center stage in the lobby. However,
I'm more intrigued by the eight-foot tall, walk-in safe painted
blue to match the blue U-shaped sofa which sits off to the side
of the glassed-in reception area. While waiting to meet with
Emmanueel Clement, external relations, I try my luck turning
the combination lock to the huge safe. No luck. The security
guard looks over and says the safe is still used for storing
items and gives me one of those "keep your hands off"
looks.
My visit doesn't last
long and it's obvious by Clement's cold manner that he would
rather be doing something else. My request to see the Chairman
and CEO's offices is quickly quashed. Suprisenly, Clement agrees
to walk me a block away to see their newest building, a brand
new structure housing the cafeteria, fitness center and various
conference rooms (which are named after scientists).
Looking over the annual
report of Fortis, it's the first company I've visited to publish
it's financial figure in ECU's (European Currency Units). As
of year-end 1994, 1 ECU= BEF 39.06= NLG 2.13= USD 1.23.
On The Road
In Antwerp
Antwerp
I like old buildings and old churches and Antwerp, Belgium's
second largest city with over 500,000 people, has a lot of 'em.
Shipping is big in Antwerp and it's the third largest port in
Europe after Rotterdam and Hamburg. Antwerp does take first place
in something: it replaces Amsterdam as having the wildest red
light district I've come across. Arriving in Amsterdam I had
heard of the city's infamous red light district but was surprised
to find it's not limited to one area of the city. My first night
in Amsterdam I was staying in a very nice hotel in a nice part
of town and went for a walk after dark to grab a hamburger. Rounding
a corner in what I thought was a well-to-do residential block,
I was completely taken aback by several VERY scantily-clad women
sitting in little storefront booths with big picture windows.
Sex is no big deal in Amsterdam and I've got proof: you know
McDonald's,, which advertises itself as a wholesome family-oriented
fast-food chain? One of their stores near the downtown area has
a sex-shop as a next door neighbor.
Anyway, getting back
to Antwerp's red light district. I was riding my bike near the
downtown waterfront area along narrow winding streets looking
at old buildings when I found myself stuck behind a line of cars
and trucks cruising along at a snails pace. A block up ahead
I found why; in a five block by five block area there're are
dozens and dozens of storefront booths filled with scantily-clad
women sitting behind picture windows trying to entice men to
come inside for a visit. When one of these women gets a customer,
a curtain is drawn across the window to let other potential customers
know she's occupied. As I bicycled by the women I thought I was
hot stuff because many were waving and whistling at me to come
in. My bubble was quickly burst when I found they whistled and
waved at just about any male passing by.
CMB SA
CMB's good-looking, company-owned, six-story headquarters fronts
the Schelde River that passes by downtown Antwerp. I'm not surprised
since its main activities are directly or indirectly related
to the shipping industry. CMB (Compagnie Maritime Belge) transports
dry cargo, crude oil, gas, and refined oil and operates terminal
activities in Antwerp and Zeebrugge. Revenues for the 100 year-old
company in 1994 were BEF 39 billion, profit BEF 1 billion.
The small, two-story lobby contains two impressive oil paintings
that completely overwhelm the room. Both done in 1795, one's
a 20 foot by 20 foot painting showing downtown Antwerp and the
larger one (26 foot by 15 foot) shows a shipping scene in Antwerp.
Sitting on one of three brown sofas waiting to meet with Jacques
van Damme, a company director, I thumb through three piles of
magazines on the coffee table. The wide range of magazine titles
include Global Finance, Institutional Investor, Knack, Chief
Executive, European Communications, Banking Review, Cigar Aficionado,
Outlook, Sea Trade Review, The Shipping Professional, Leaders,
Treasury, Corporate Finance Europe and, the ever popular Site
Selection.
About 600 employees
work here but, there isn't a cafeteria only break-rooms containing
microwaves and refrigerators. The 60-something year old van Damme
gives me a great reception and has a good sense of humor. He
mentions how everyone always asks if he's related to Jean-Claude
van Damme, the action movie hero. He's become so tired of saying
no that he know answers, yes. The company's art collection consists
primarily of oil paintings having to do with shipping plus, there's
a neat collection of old shipping advertising posters framed
and hanging on hallway walls.
CEO Marc Saverys has
a fifth floor office with a straight out, unobstructed view of
the river. A large framed picture of his four boys hangs on one
wall as well as a large map of Colombia and two pictures of company
cargo ships. I also note the dartboard, the mini-refrigerator
and one plant (real). The sixth floor, called the Penthouse,
is sort of a lounge area for executives. I count six comfy-looking
sofas and several antique globes (one dated 1863).
Ackerman &
van Haaren
Originally a dredging firm founded around 1880, the company is
now an industrial holding company with interests in a variety
of businesses engaged in civil engineering, services to the oil
industry, packaging, distribution, shipping and financial services.
Revenues in 1994 were BEF 24 billion.
Headquarters, a neat
old building built in the 1850's, lies about a mile from the
center of downtown Antwerp and has been home to the company since
1900. The red brick structure has a black, three-story cupola
sitting atop. Next to the 12-foot tall wooden entrance doors
there's a small plaque with Ackerman & van Haaren's name
on it.
Judith McCarthy, receptionist,
calls around and is told to tell me "everyone's busy".
From her I find out 16 employees work in the place and that there
was a Mr. Ackerman and a Mr. van Haaren.
Before leaving I ask
McCarthy about the elevator. It's REAL old. It's one of those
where you open the metal mesh to get in. McCarthy says it still
works but for insurance reasons visitors aren't allowed to use
it.
Gevaert NV/SA
The day before visiting Gevaert, a financial holding company,
I rode around Antwerp trying to find a self-service launderette.
In some countries they're plentiful and some they're not. Next
to getting a haircut (it's not fun having a new person experimenting
on your hair each time), doing laundry every week is the least
favorite part of my traveling. Since I move around almost every
day it's hard to have a hotel do it (plus they charge TWO arms
and a leg). Most of my clothes are cotton requiring no dry cleaning.
Earlier this year I remember passing through Stockholm, a city
of 1.5 million people, and found only ONE self-service place
in the whole city (and the owner said she was barely staying
in business). How was she surviving? By doing laundry for hotels.
Matter of fact, during my several months touring Sweden it's
the only self-service Laundromat I found! Why? The Laundromat
owner said, "we're a prosperous country and everyone has
their own". Oh, and the price tag for those two small loads
I DID MYSELF in Stockholm: $25.00!
I rode five miles
from downtown Antwerp and found a self-service Laundromat on
the main street of Mortsel, a quiet community. It's a nice small-town
street lined with mom & pop stores on the ground floor and
three and four-story apartments above. Of course I was in hog
heaven because two doors down was a tasty pastry shop (which
reminds me: I think I lost five pounds in The Netherlands because
they have lousy bakeries and I've been putting it back on thanks
to Belgium bakers sumptuous treats).
Well, there's a reason
I told you about doing my laundry in Mortsel. The next day I
go looking for Gevaert's headquarters and find it located two
blocks BEHIND the Laundromat in a gigantic, sprawling factory
complex I couldn't see from the Laundromat because the apartment
buildings on the main street hid it.
Hmmm, this is odd.
Across the street from the massive factory complex there's a
block-long, six-story office building and the name AGFA on it.
AGFA, which I know produces photo film, also can be seen on some
of the factory buildings. I wonder, does Gevaert own AGFA?
Entering the building
you encounter a receptionist. Behind her is the large glassed-in
lobby area. You don't get to the lobby unless she buzzes you
in. I don't get buzzed in. Why? The receptionist connects me
with Christine De Boeck, secretary to Managing Director Marc
Francken, who states "no one's available to meet with you".
I'm given an annual report but that doesn't explain Gevaert's
relationship with AGFA. Gevaert does however, have holdings in
over 20 big companies including: 3.9% of insurer Aegon, 7.5%
of KNP BT, 18% of shipper Hapag-Lloyd, 1% of airline Deutsche
Lufthansa and 1% of Bayer. I ask the receptionist to explain
the relationship with AGFA and she ends up calling over a guy
who hands me a press release from AGFA. Here's the story:
In 1890 Lieven Gevaert set up his own workshop for producing
calcium paper. In 1920 Gevaert Photo-Producten N.V. was founded.
In 1964 Agfa AG, a subsidiary of Bayer AG, and Gevaert Photo-Producten
N.V. merged. Two working partnerships were created Agfa-Gevaert
N.V. (Mortsel, Belgium) and Agfa-Gevaert AG (Leverkusen, Germany)
in which both parent companies, Gevaert Photo-Producten N.V.
and Agfa AG, each had 50% of the shares. In 1981 Gevaert Photo-Producten
N.V. exchanged its shares in Agfa-Gevaert AG and Agfa-Gevaert
N.V. for a package of Bayer shares. In this Gevaert Photo-Producten
N.V. became purely a holding company without any further participation
in the partnerships within the Agfa-Gevaert Group. Later the
name of the holding company was changed to Gevaert N.V. To summarize:
Agfa-Gevaert is the industrial concern, producer of chemical
and electronic imaging systems owned by Bayer. Gevaert N.V. is
a financial holding company--the ones who haven't time to meet
with me. The press release goes on to say, "today both firms
don't have any direct relations". But, they do have an indirect
relationship because Gevaert's offices are inside the block-long
Agfa-Gevaert building. Oh, and incidentally if you're wondering
what Agfa stands for here it is: AktienGsellschaft Fuer Anilinfabrikation. |